MOUNTAIN SURVIVAL

Mountain Sickness
To people unfamiliar with altitude and its effects on the human body a trip from sea level to 3048 metres (10,000 feet) may seem like no big deal. Many people can make this change without feeling ill effects or may have only minor symptoms. However others acclimatize more slowly and may become extremely ill. The signs and symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) include: Headache, Nausea, Loss of appetite, Heavy fatigue and Vomiting. None of the above symptoms are life threatening. Neither are they serious. However the person experiencing them is probably not having a good time. Moreover the patient must be monitored closely to insure that a more severe form of AMS and/or dehydration does not develop. In any case, the first rule is: dont go any higher until the symptoms reduce! This is followed closely by the second rule: if the symptoms continue to get worse or dont improve within 48 hours, go down! More severe forms of AMS are High Altitude Pulmonary Edema and High Altitude Cerebral Edema.

HAPE is characterized by the following: ataxia (loss of muscle control resulting in difficulty maintaining balance), coughing, crackling or gurgling sounds while breathing, difficulty breathing and cyanosis (bluish tint to skin); leading to respiratory and cardiac arrest.

HACE is characterized by the following: severe headache, ataxia, hallucinations and seizures; leading to unconsciousness and death. If someone experiences signs and symptoms of HAPE or HACE, they must be taken to a lower elevation without delay or they will die!

A good method of determining if someone is progressing to a serious form of AMS is to administer a walking/balance test. Have the patient walk in a straight line touching heel to toe for a few metres. If they can not do it you have a big problem; they must be brought to a lower elevation immediately! It should be noted that ataxic patients can successfully perform the lean back with eyes closed and touch the tip of the nose test. This test is not reliable for altitude induced ataxia. Other physical effects produced by altitude include: Sleep apnea, Peripheral edema (puffiness of face, hands or feet) and Retinal haemorrhage (rupture of a small blood vessel in the eye). Preventing altitude illness requires patience. A party should not climb any faster than they are able to acclimatize. This may mean that the entire group is delayed by one or two members. However, this is a necessary precaution that will help prevent serious problems and enhance the enjoyment of everyone. As an individual gains experience at altitude, he learns how his body reacts to the pressure changes in the ever thinning atmosphere. Learn your limitations. Until then, here are some guidelines that will help prevent AMS; Increase intake of water prior to and during a visit to high altitude (urine should be clear to slightly yellow), Reduce salt intake, Avoid alcohol and sleeping pills, Diet should consist of at least 70% complex carbohydrates. 

Stage the accent. Coming from near sea level, spend a night at between 1524 and 2134 metres (5000-7000 feet). Then spend a total of 48 hours at an elevation no higher than 3048 metres before climbing to a higher elevation to sleep. Above 3048 metres do not increase sleeping elevation by more than 305 metres (1000 feet) per day. That nagging headache probably is caused by the altitude. Note: It is OK to climb higher as long as you return to a lower elevation to sleep.

Pressure breathing helps. Every few breaths fill your lungs. Then forcibly exhale through pursed lips. Exhale completely. This technique can cure a high altitude headache within 30 minutes, and will actually help you get up the mountain. There are prescription drugs that help prevent altitude illness and speed acclimatization, but they are not without side affects. See your doctor. We subscribe to the philosophy that drugs should only be used when there is no other alternative. And, they should only be used to get down the mountain, not up.

Avalanche Terrain
Dangerous avalanches are most common between 30 degrees and 45 degrees, ideal skiing, boarding or snowmobiling slopes. Lee slopes are a potential hazard because wind deposited snow creates unstable slabs. Windward slopes generally have less snow, which is compacted, and are usually more stable. In the absence of wind, slopes of any aspect may avalanche. Avoid large steep, lee bowls, gullies and cornices. Choose safer routes: ridge tops, valley floors, dense timber and low angle slopes. If you choose to ski, board or ride an avalanche slope, minimize your risk. Never have more than one person on a slope at any time. Don't stop in the middle of the slope, move to a safe place. Watch each person on the slope. Stay in voice contact. Have a plan: know who is going to go first, where to stop and where is the escape route.

Effects of height
For every 500 metres above sea level reduce the normal abilities of PS, PP, PE and SPD by 1. Over 1000 metres and the negative effects of cold must also be added.

 
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