Adelaide to Alice Springs via the Oodnadatta track 2002

 

 

I decided to Bike ride the Oodnadatta track due to my interest in the explorer Mc Douall Stuart who travelled this way on his trek to the top end in the 1800’s. I had already ridden to Alice in 1998 along the Stuart Highway and this route is decidedly more interesting. Hills, mesas, deserts, breakaways, salt lakes and all sorts of variations imaginable.

Greg my work mate heard about the trip and decided to come. He had never been on a long bike trip and wanted the experience (and I wanted someone to share it with).

We were both runners so fitness was never an issue. Some of the text you may find a little terse. That’s because it is just my trip notes typed up. Unfortunately I don’t have time to tell the story. I don’t tell about many of the people we met on the way. Lots of interesting people doing ordinary and extraordinary things. I suppose that’s the real story.

However I am trying to give people who want to ride the track a bit of an overview of what its like.

If you do decide to do it be aware that no one suffers fools gladly. Plan and enjoy yourself and the company of all the others out there.

Take care

Rick Sept 2002

 

Include on this web page are

My training regime prior to the trip

Daily kilometres on trip.

Equipment taken

Q and A

Links

You can contact me at the following address if you wish to find out any more information. I’m more than happy to oblige.  parrk@chariot.net.au

 

Training Regime

As a runner I was running 60 kilometers a week until I started my build up for the trip. Once I started Bike Riding my running went on hold.

 

Wk      Wk Total                             Longest Bike Ride

Wk1    160km                              Long Bike ride 80km

Wk2    160km                                Long Bike ride 93km 

Wk3    175km                                Long Bike ride 65km 

Wk4    200km                                Long Bike ride 100km 

Wk5    225km                                Long Bike ride 100km 

Wk6    255km                                Long Bike ride 100km 

Wk7    Off

Wk8    Trip

 

Had a rest week prior to trip. You will not lose any fitness for two weeks if inactive. Besides I was very busy organising the trip and stripping the bike down. I have used this program before and find it satisfactory. You will also gain fitness as you go.

 

Date

Day

Day No.

Town

Km

Total

13-04-02

sat

1

Gepps Cross to Clare

125

125

14-04-02

sun

2

Clare to Jamestown

74

199

15-04-02

mon

3

Jamestown to Carrieton

94

293

16-04-02

tue

4

Carrieton to Hawker

70

400

17-04-02

wed

5

Hawker to Beltana

130

489

18-04-02

thu

6

Beltana to Lyndhurst

68

593

19-04-02

fri

7

Lyndhurst to Marree

79

672

20-04-02

sat

8

Rest Day

0

672

21-04-02

sun

9

Marree to Coward springs

139

811

22-04-02

mon

10

Coward Springs to William Creek

74

885

23-04-02

tue

11

William Creek to Algebuckinna Bridge

145

1030

24-04-02

wed

12

Algebuckinna Bridge to Oodnadatta

55

1085

25-04-02

thu

13

Rest Day

0

1085

26-04-02

fri

14

Oodnadatta to Camp

154

1239

27-04-02

sat

15

Camp to Marla

55

1294

28-04-02

sun

16

Marla to Overnight Camp

145

1439

29-04-02

mon

17

Overnight Camp to Kulgera

40

1479

30-04-02

tue

18

Kulgera to Erldunda

74

1553

01-05-02

wed

19

Erldunda to Stuarts Well

108

1661

02-05-02

thu

20

Stuarts Well to Alice Springs

91

1752

03-05-02

fri

21

We're There

 

 

 

 

Equipment

Bike                                                 Avanti Ridge rider                                                15kg

Tyres                                                                                                                                       

Front                                                       Off road

Rear                            Bitumen Slick with off road Knobbly on Edge                                                   

Tubes                                                   Thorn Proof

Rack                                                 Aluminium Tioga

Panniers                                                    Tioga

Torch                                                        Solar

 

Tools                                                     Nylon Ties

                                                           Cone Spanner

                                                        Puncture Kits (2)

                                                            Tyre Levers

                                                          Spoke Wrench

                                                              Link Tool

                                                       Flywheel Remover

                                                    Gear and Brake Cables

                                                         Shifting Spanner

                                                             Allen Keys

                                                                 Pliers

                                                           Screwdrivers

                                                                  Wire

                                                              Duct tape

                                                             Black Tape

                                                             Bike Lock

                                                                 Cord

                                                             Chain Lube

                                                                 Pump

Spares                                                     Tyre(1)

                                                              Tubes (2)

                                                             Spokes (4)

                                                             Chain Link

Equipment

                                                      Tea Towel and pegs

                                                                 Soap

                                                                 Towel

                                                                Flannel

                                                            Tooth Brush

                                                            Tooth Paste

                                                                 Razor

                                                             Deodorant

                                                              Sunscreen

                                                                 Comb

                                                       Needle and Thread

                                                    Water Purifying tablets

                                                               Matches

                                                           Triangia Stove

                                                    Dish, cup, spoon, knife

                                                            Writing Pad

                                                                 Maps

                                                              Pen/Pencil

                                                           Pocket Knife

                                                          Camera/watch

                                         Driver’s lic/medicare card/credit cards

                                                                Metho

                                                      Socks (3), Jocks (3)

                                                             Hankies (3)

                                                                  Tent

                                                            Sleeping Bag

                                                            Torch Globe

                                                           Sleeping Mat

                                                                Helmet

                                                                Gloves

                                                                Glasses

                                                             Rain Jacket

                                                             Bike Shoes

                                                             Bike Pants

                                                       Octopus Straps (2)

                                                                 Shorts

                                                            Track pants

                                                            Windcheater

                                                             T Shirts (2)

                                                                Singlet

                                                              Shirts (2)

                                                            Toilet Paper

                                                          Sandals/Thongs

First Aid Kit                                             Aspirin

                                                              Bandaids

                                                         Antibiotic Cream

                                                           Nail Clippers

                                                               Eyewash

Food                                                       Sultanas

                                                          Breakfast Bars

                                                          Dried Apricots

                                                             PowerAde

                                                                 Pasta

                                                           Packet Soups

                                                            Lolly Snakes

                                                         Coffee in a tube

                                                                  Rice

                                                           Sugar Serves

As there is usually about two days between towns on the track it’s not necessary to take a lot of food. As we went we tended to carry less and less food. However this will tend to send your food bill up, as some places are quite expensive for food. You will have an appetite!

 

                                                                    

                                                                    

 

Day 1

Saturday 13th   April 2002(125km)

 

We left at 8.00 from Gepps Cross.

It was very busy through Elizabeth and Gawler. The road narrows on the way to Tarlee.  It was extra busy due to Saturday morning and school holidays.  No near misses for a change.

Very humid with head/side wind.  After only 60k I slowed down – very dehydrated.  Think I caught a virus – hot but shivery, ears blocked and headache.  Although maybe my body found out I was on another long trip and decided to rebel!

We had lunch at Tarlee.

The traffic got lighter after lunch. Very undulating – hilly – lots of ‘ups’.  Got to Clare about 3.50pm.  Miscalculated with mileage – thought it was 116k but was 125+km. 

Set our tents up at Clare caravan park – showered, had tea (noodles and takeaway).  Had a coffee in the TV room and bed by 7.45pm. Lots of backpackers and young Europeans at the park.

Started to feel a little better as the night wore on.

 

Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: some tail but side and head (easterly)

·        Weather: humid, then cool, cloudy and sunny at times 24?

·        Terrain: flat to Gawler, then hills increased all the way to Clare.

·        Speed: 20kmh

·        Bike problems: adjusted Greg’s rear cones

·        Traffic: very heavy until afternoon and turn off to Clare

·        Water: very hard to find water taps in towns.

 

Day 2.

Sunday 14th   April 2002 (74km)

 

Left Clare Caravan Park at 8.30am.

Extra windy – change came through last night – big gum trees and leaves blowing violently.

Nice going to Spalding.

Average 23 kmh – did about 43km.

Had something to eat at the local park and a rest for half an hour then off.

Winds got worse and worse, landscape mildly undulating. 

Very open pasture land with stark hills – nothing sown in paddocks.  Very ‘rurally’.

Wind started to swing to north and became a head wind.  Very slow going, about 16kmh.

Stopped a few times just for a break from the wind.

Road very narrow but not much traffic (minor road). 

Eventually got to Jamestown after a very hard ride.

Jamestown nice, quiet, typical mid north country town.

Caravan Park nice but no cooking facilities like Clare.

Wind started to moderate about 4.30pm.

Nice supermarket – prices similar to Adelaide.

 

Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: east/north east – then north (normal hot weather pattern)

·        Terrain: very mild undulations, low round hills, wheat country

·        Speed: first part of trip 23 kmh, second 16 kmh.

·        Bike problems: none

·        Traffic: ‘busy’? for a Sunday until Spalding, then light to Jamestown

·        Water: plenty at Spalding and Jamestown – taps everywhere.

 

 

Day 3.

Monday 15th April (94km)

 

Very windy again last night (as per Clare) – eased off at daybreak then started again as we left at 8.00am.

Easterly wind – not as bad as yesterday and got lighter as we went north.

Traffic light – lots of trail bikes out and about.

Got to Orroroo at 11.00am.

Smallish town.  Had lunch – pie and Gatorade. Sat in main street. Orroroo a pleasant little town

Decided to head to Carriton as wind was now very light. Left at 12.00 and had an excellent run to Carriton. Road very good- lots of uphills going onto a higher plain or Flinders Ranges. Very scenic compared to previous few days. Arrived at 2.00.

Caravan Park was an old school-Lots of ghosts around. Nobody there so had to chase up a key by going around to two different houses, the hotel and the shop twice (which closes at 1.00 pm every day)

No hot water so town mechanic fixed it up. Used BBQ to boil water and cook pasta. Lots of little chairs to sit around on (great)

Went to hotel after and had chips and a beer. All the locals knew who we were and where we were staying.

Very dark and quiet at the School/Caravan Park. Hopefully won’t be getting any unwanted guests! 

 

 

 

Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: easterly slowly dying as we got further north

·        Terrain: mild undulation till arrow, then climbs to high plain, then flattish

·        Speed: 20kmh overall, first section slow, second section faster

·        Bike problems: tape solar torch to handle-bars to stop it moving around

·        Traffic: average to very light in afternoon, i.e. 1-2 cars per 15 minutes

·        Water: Available Orroroo Main Street, at park – tank water or bore.

 

Day 4.

Tuesday 16th  (70km)

 

Beautiful starry night and slept well (8-6).

Up (windy last night) packed and gone by 8.00.

Usual easterly/north east.

First hour great, second hour getting windy and uphill – saw five emus running along (faster than us 22+). Followed along with us for a couple of Kilometres.

Got to Craddock, nothing there but heat and flies.

Dirt road from Cradock to Hawker about 27 km – a bit rough/rocky, dusty etc.

I enjoyed it – bike went well.

Hawker busy with 4x4’s. Nice touristy atmosphere

Caravan Park a bit on the expensive side and the manager was painful – but had a beautiful view of Wilpena Pound from back of caravan park camp kitchen – just sat there in the afternoon and relaxed looking at the view.

Had BBQ tea – sausages, onions etc.

Nice calm clear night – seems windier in morning then tapers off in afternoon.

Watched TV in camp kitchen/TV room in evening (nice for a change).

 

 

Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: north/north easterly but gusty at times

·        Terrain: rolling hills and big outcrops all around (very scenic first half), (second half head down watching rocks and gravel)

·        Speed: average 20km/h on bitumen 15 – 28, dirt 16 – 22 = average 10km/h

·        Bike problems: none but had to repair tent pole – Greg’s

·        Traffic: very light 3 – 4 per hour (bitumen), 7 per hour on dirt

·        Water: Cradock none, Hawker bore water, rainwater from caravan park.

 

Heading out through the Flinders

 

Day 5.

Wednesday 17th    April (130km)

 

Up, grabbed some supplies from the local store and left about 8.15, beautiful day, calm and clear, followed alongside the Flinders Ranges (to our east) going straight north.

Signs of Old Ghan Railway line.

Wind came up after 1.30 and persisted although slight.

Stopped at 50km and had lunch in an old creek bed off of the road (muffin and Gatorade for me).

Pushed on to Parachilna getting very hot.

Arrived Parachilna 12.50 after 90k. Tourist video taping us as we arrived.

Hotel trendy, catering for upmarket clientele in outback location.

Nothing else there dusty, hot and nowhere to camp.

Some terrible accommodation in air-conditioned shipping containers (old Australian National stop).

Decided to rest and go on to Beltana roadhouse.

Sat out the front of the hotel and talked to a couple of people about our trip and what’s at Marree.

Steady afternoon, got to Beltana Roadhouse just before 4.00, 130km all up. Very hot afternoon.

The roadhouse looks rundown from the road but has cheap prices and lots of take-away food – a top spot (just a pity about the flies).

Ate until 5.00ish

We then went down the road and found an old riverbed. Walked along it, found a tent site on the bank and camped for the night. Lit a campfire and in bed by 7.30.

Heard train go through during the night. (About 1km away) Leigh Creek to Port Augusta rail line (coal for power station).

 

Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: relatively light but alternating depending on area – north, north east, west, south (last 10k)

·        Terrain: Ranges on east but fairly flat everywhere else first 80k very scenic

·        Speed: average speed 21 with stops always seems to be one hour 20km

·        Bike problems: none

·        Traffic: very light 3 – 4 per hour tapering off in afternoon

·        Water: Parachilna – big water tank and toilets out front near main road – excellent       Beltana roadhouse – available if you ask

·        Personal problems: sunburn, sore right eye.

 

Camping out alongside river bed near Beltana

 

Day 6.

Thursday 18th (68km)

 

Awoke early – couldn’t open right eye. Had to use eyewash from first aid kit to get it open.

Left 7.45ish – no breakfast (usually have pop tarts or breakfast bars with a cup of coffee)

Expected easy 30k to Leigh Creek but wind was very strong from the north – 15kmh.

Tiring push into Leigh Creek after yesterday and wind.

Uphill into Leigh Creek – nice pass through the hills just before Leigh Creek. (Train also goes through).

Toilets and Water Tank just before turn off – drinkable.

Leigh Creek is a very modern town, tree lined main road goes around in an abstract circle enclosing school, shop centre, facilities, amenities etc. housing streets go off outwards from this – (like a web) small but nice.

People well dressed, a touch of the city in the outback.

Stayed until 1.00. Bought lots of food, ate and rested at the supermarket.

Went to Information Centre about the track and then school library to send emails off.

Not quite so hard 38k to Lyndhurst. Has toilets/drinking water as per Leigh Creek and Parachilna.

Small general store and hotel-nothing else.

Hotel good has free camping (on nice manicured grass) free showers – just a donation to flying doctor and BBQ. Manager very helpful and nice.

They had rain last week – still muddy in places.

Cooked some pasta with Greg for tea.

Walked along Strezlecki and Oodnadatta tracks for a look.

Had a beer at the hotel on veranda after tea. Very calm evening.

 

 

 Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: north

·        Terrain: a few hills to Leigh Creek then became relatively flat (coalfields go for miles) flinders disappeared after Leigh Creek

·        Speed: 18kmh average minimum 15 maximum 22 (not often)

·        Bike problems: none

·        Traffic: very light

·        Water: available from Leigh Creek, Lyndhurst (bore?, rain? –bought tanked in?) rest rooms

·        Personal problems: right eye very bad

            Alongside the Lyndhurst Hotel with main Road in background

 

Day 7.

Friday 19th April (80km)

 

Still night – sunrise 6.30ish.  Horses wandering around last night.

Left 8.00 northeast wind came up right on time (must come up as sun warms the land).

Northeast 80k day first on dirt.

Conditions varied first few km’s. Track smooth as last weeks rain and cars turned mud into smooth pathway. Then rocks dirt, corrugations, not too bad for car but slow going on bike.

Very flat landscape, only saltbush with nothing to see.

Took nearly five hours to do 80kmh into headwind – tough day.

Very hot 32C used three litres of water. Got into Marree 12.50.

Only thing to see all trip was 25k out.

Emus ran by me in two places – very close.

Marree not much fairly run down. Has a couple of stores though food average – a little dearer than the rest – nowhere near as good as Leigh Creek.

Got our food parcel from the post office (arrived on time).

Caravan Park although dirty/dusty has good facilities re kitchen, fridge, laundry, grass tent sites (sort of).

Had a beer at the Marree hotel.

Walked around town at dusk – didn’t take long.

Having a rest day tomorrow. It’ll be our first day off for seven day’s riding.

(Greg took off today and left me behind  - I didn’t try to stay up with him. He didn’t stop at Farrina as arranged (I did) so I wasn’t happy – if he broke down I had tools and would be along but if I had injury he had first aid kit – I did need Savlon for burnt lips. We were to meet at 50k for break – at 50k he wasn’t there so figured he kept going. I had a little rest and plodded on. About 10k from Marree saw rider behind me. Unreal to think someone else riding the track. Got to Marree Greg wasn’t there – he stopped at 50km and I rode straight past him – so he wasn’t happy. I didn’t see him in a flat landscape (or hear him yell) must have been the wind. He was the one behind me!

 

 

 Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: north east constant

·        Terrain: flat, saltbush

·        Speed: about 16kmh

·        Bike problems: none

·        Traffic: about 10 –12 cars all day (a car load of aborigines stopped and asked if I was o.k. – only ones)

·        Water: none Marree has small rain tank at Caravan Park. All other water untreated bore water

·        Personal problems: eye still bad but can open easier in morning. Lips cracked/burnt – like rest of me.

  

Day 8.

Saturday 20th April 2002

 

Lazy day in Marree.

Awoke 6.00 read the paper until 7.00ish then up – too hot in tent.

Retreated to ‘outdoor kitchen’ with Greg for breakfast and to sit and do nothing.

Went to town got supplies looked at old station and around town and back before too hot – 33C+.

Not many people around.

Checked bikes in afternoon.

Worked out extra two litre water bottle positions on bike.

Am taking 2x1 litre bike bottles, 2x2 litre soft drink bottles tied to bike.

1x2 litre in left pannier and 3x600ml in right pannier. Should be enough for two days if not too hot (and windy).

Internet available Marree Servo/grocery/post office $2.80 for ten minutes (cheaper to ring).

Grocer across road cheaper for food.

 

     Cnr Oodnadatta & Birdsville Tracks with Stuart’s monument in background

 

 

  Main Street of Marree

 

Day 9.

Sunday 21st April 2002 (139km)

 

Up 5.45. Usual process of packing gear and tent. Left about 6.40ish.

Cloudy not a hot day – road average to bad very rocky about 15/16 kmh maximum.

Track wide. Not many cars/trucks early but more as day went by.

Westerly wind not too bad.

Very stark.

Rode 50k had a quick break.

Alberrie Creek has two houses and ‘sculptures’ i.e. iron planes/cars etc.

Could possibly get water if desperate. Stopped to look at Lake Eyre.

Rode to 100k – Curdumurka an old station which hosts an outback ‘ball’ every few years. Interesting place.

Bore water available.

Had a rest and some lunch (sultanas, dried apricots, PowerAde) away from sun and flies inside old building and we decided to go on to Coward Springs – extra 30ish Kms.

Slow ride got there at 4.45 = 10 hour day. A bit tired. Track shocking.

Coward Springs a nice spot in the middle of nowhere. Had cold shower, looked around quickly and had tea. Greg went for a dip.

Water should be o.k.

Less load to carry tomorrow four litres plus 600ml PowerAde.

Lots of people camping here (lots of flies and mossies too).

 

 

Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: westerly

·        Terrain: flat, saltbush, low mesas, salt plains

·        Speed: 15kmh

·        Bike problems: Greg panniers jumping off

·        Traffic: at times 4 – 6 per hour other times ‘none’ per hour. More than expected maybe Sunday?

·        Water: Alberrie Creek (homesteads) Curdumurka (bore water) Coward Springs (bore water) – rain water tank empty

·        Personal problems: eye no better. Burnt etc.

   Curdumurka Railway Siding 100k from Marree

 

 

Day 10.

Monday 22nd April 2002 (74km)

 

Track to William Creek had been graded.

First 40km fairly good (18k average) last 35k o.k. Track slowly deteriorated the further we got. Must be grading down from Oodnadatta.

Winds light, sun warm, perfect ride.

Stopped Beresford Bore – lake full – ducks around.

Haven’t eaten much. Only noodles for tea, then half dozen apricots (dried) for breakfast.

75km ride finished around lunchtime.

William Creek busy (one hotel caravan park on one side, One take away/caravan park on the other) – new competition for the hotel. No other houses.

Stayed at Caravan Park near take away as emailed him about conditions earlier in the year. (Also no water at hotel Caravan Park.

Small rainwater tank with water in our caravan park – excellent but very low.

Greg decided to spend extra day at William Creek and/or break trip into 60k days instead of 100k days.

 

Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: slight breeze- very blowy but afternoon westerly warm – hot day 26C

·        Terrain: flat, sparse, rocky, some saltpans

·        Speed: around 18km/h - fast

·        Bike problems: none. Oiled chain

·        Traffic: very light about 6 cars for 75km 1+ per hour

·        Water: bore at William Creek. Small amount rainwater at caravan park (nearly all gone).

Riverbed on the way to William Creek

 

 

Part of the Old Telegraph Line

 

Main Street of William Creek

 

 

On the Way to Oodnadatta

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 11.

Tuesday 23rd April 2002         (145k day)

Up 5.45 left 7.00 (William Creek).

Extra calm morning, beautiful. First 20km gravely but not too bad.

Next 30km lots of creek beds, hills, bends etc. 15km/h. 50km = 3 hours

Then sandy creek beds with sand on road – can ride fast on edge without breaking through, although if you slow down you break the crust and sink. Lots of sandy corrugations.

Riding fast about 20km+ (had a slight tail wind).

Two cars (at different times) slowed down and talked to me (one man, one woman) both said Greg was about 10km back (bush telegraph).

After 80km road turned to usual horrible gravel and rock for 20km.

At 100km decided to ride the extra 45km to Algebuckinna Bridge to camp.

Had a break under the only tree in 20km. Very hot 30+ day, checked map, drank PowerAde, put on sunscreen and left 1.00 for bridge. While resting with ants etc off of track a van came along. I’m sure they didn’t believe their eyes seeing me there in the middle of nowhere, waving to them.

Road not too bad lots of variations but very tired by 135km.

Got passed by a few convoys of 4WD most slowed down and talked to me. I have been travelling on wrong side of road all the way (seems to be the best side) usually every km you would cross the road 2 – 3 times to find a good spot.

Got to bridge at 4.00. Set up camp, lit fire, talked to caravaner who passed me earlier in the day.

Cooked some rice with sultanas, drank lots of water and wrote this.

Excellent day lots of km’s, tired but satisfied. Enjoyed being by myself for a change.

Camped by river near bridge (water in it).

Overall this section of road has been the best (besides graded bit near William Creek) worst so far Marree – Coward Springs.

Only had to push the bike through two creek beds so far.

 

Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: tailwind (south)/none in afternoon hot day 35?

·        Terrain: all sorts creek beds, flats, gravel and sand, rocks and saltbush, some hills

·        Speed: 23 maximum – 13 minimum average about 17/18ish

·        Bike problems: none.

·        Traffic: light but convoys of three at a time

·        Water: none possibly Edward Creek may have bore-not sure

Camping out at Algebuckinna Bridge

 

 

Day 12.

Wednesday 24th April 2002 (55km)

 

TOUGH day. Never expect an easy day in the desert.

Had a look around at Algebuckinna Bridge.

‘Mack’ left early but others camped there still. Packed and away for a late start at 8.20.

Tired from yesterday but not too bad.

First 20km creeks, sandy washaways. Had to get off and push through about three.

The wind was north northeast and very strong.

Climbed up through some hills (long up, then down, then longer up then creek beds etc) weather got hotter and my dreams of an easy ride evaporated 55km in four and a half hours (Got to Oodnadatta stuffed at 12.50ish).

Went through a pass (Mt Dutton) looked back but didn’t look like I’d travelled uphill (Mt Dutton only 174 m) but just lots of ups and downs. Glad to be here.

Bought 1.25 litre Coke sat at store and rested.

Went to Pink Roadhouse. Caravan Park out back. Had an ‘Oodna burger’ $7.50. Took her ages to make – then I saw why. One big plate one bun with piles of salad other bun with huge burger onions, bacon cheese egg.

Talked to girl for a while (she knew I was bike riding and out the back – news travels fast).

Everyone says Oodnadatta’s a dump – which I suppose it is but when you travel through the land and see how arid and inhospitable it is you can really appreciate a place like this and understand why it is the way it is.

Met owner of Pink Roadhouse ‘Lynne’ she said she’d been waiting for me to show up as people have been talking about rider on track. She let me sleep in the bunkhouse seeing no one in there – a bed and a light and chairs – unreal. Very nice people. 

Quite a few wrecked houses with one pumping out Pink Floyds ‘Dark side of the moon’ – sounds good in an eerie sort of way amongst the yelling.

Noticed that everything seemed greener about 30k from ‘Oodna’ – even green ‘weeds’ on the road.

The grocery store lady said they had a lot of rain recently – plenty of water about. Apparently even the bore water is O.K. to drink.

·        Note used up all water by the time I got to Oodnadatta.

Day 1 (145k) Took 2x1 PowerAde and eight and a half litres of water used four and a half litres of water and 1 PowerAde  - this includes rice tea and half a litre to drink overnight.

Day 2 (only 55k or quarter of two day ride) used three and a half litres water and 1 PowerAde.

Day 1 = nine hours      Day 2 = four and a half hours.

Just enough water for high temperature, physically demanding days. For next two days if hot will consider morning and evening riding.

 

 

Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: headwind north north east/north - strong

·        Terrain: gravely, sand hills, hills/mesas, lots of river crossings (Neales river system)

·        Speed: 12 kmh average

·        Bike problems: none.

·        Traffic: very light three cars all day

·        Water: rain and bore at Oodnadatta.

·        Personal: Eye no better or worse – can’t open in morning but O.K. after. Lips getting better?

 

 

 

 

Oodnadatta at last

 

Checking out the library at “The Pink Roadhouse” while getting some carbs

Day 13.

Thursday 25th Anzac Day 2002

 

Not a bad sleep considering yelling and fighting around town and galahs squealing and mossies biting.

Greg got in at 8.30 am. First night he slept at Edwards ruin. Second night was going to camp at Algebuckinna Bridge. When he got there he decided he must carry on and get as close to Oodnadatta as possible due to his water situation. Got to about 20k from Oodnadatta and rode last bit early in morning.

Picked up last food parcel from post office.

Change came through last night/this morning very windy southerly but sun still very hot.

Went to Railway Station/Museum (got key from servo) – very good display of photographs, memorabilia – free/donation – well worth the visit. Life was tough in the old days – even riding a bike is a walk in the park in comparison.

Oodna had a strong sense of community in earlier days (even 60’s) – suppose they had to.

Pity the place is run down and going faster.

Didn’t sleep in bunkhouse – too hot – slept in tent.

 

 

 

Wonder what’s behind the door?

 

 

Day 14.

Friday 26th April 2002 (154km)

 

Wind from south east (perfect) very cloudy, patchy rain in distance.

Left 7.30. First 80k of track good (20kmh).

Greg took off saw him at 106km having lunch (I’d already had mine so kept on going)

First 100k only one car (3 Aborigines, one with Hawaiian shirt and a real character-great) very flat nothing to see, lots and lots of green – had plenty of rain.

Road got rougher as I went. A very lonely stretch of road – no more railway line.

Saw a few kangaroos and eagles. Also more cattle. Went through a few creeks – not many after 100km.

Greg caught up rode together for a while. Then I stopped for a drink (about 145km). Got going Greg in front about 1km.

At 154km saw Telstra receiver station and decided to camp there – hadn’t seen anywhere else flat or scrub free for ages.

Heaps of flies. Put up tent and made fire.

First time I’ve felt totally alone – must be the lack of cars (only one in 155km).

Even put on clear glasses in front of fire in case I copped ember in the eye – must be paranoid.

Had an excellent sleep. Two cars went by last night about 10.30 – didn’t stop – thank goodness – as there is a couple of old camp fires around.

* Day much cooler 22? – Didn’t need much water – plenty left.

 

 

Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: south east

·        Terrain: very flat, few small hills, a few river beds, very green, starting to look like cattle country – is cattle country

·        Speed: 20 kmh at first then back to 17ish – road rougher (and narrower)

·        Bike problems: none.

·        Traffic: one per 154km

·        Water: none.

 

Strange to see some storm clouds on the way

 

 

Day 15.

Saturday 27th April 2002 (55km)

 

Up 6.15 full moon in west, sun rising in east, satellite going across sky.

Filled in campfire, packed and left.

Cool day light south easterly (soothing sounds of wind blowing through tower last night) damp patches on road.

55k to Marla around three and a quarter hours track went through small ‘range’ of low hill but basically flat. Surface sandy gravel/rock. Average condition although last 20k had been graded (I think) a layer of white sandy stones mixed in on top – not that smooth.

Bushes very lush, caught in light rain, lots of kangaroos around.

Arrived Marla 10.00. Oodnadatta track completed.

A little sad because that’s another part of the trip completed – not a lot of new places to see now.

Had a walk around Marla – grown a lot since I went through in 1998 – lots of new houses/depots etc.

Greg camped about 10km on from me last night. Arrived Marla three quarters of an hour earlier.

Decided to book small cabin ($30.00) very basic. Just in case it rains and a treat for completing the track.

Turned out warm in the afternoon.

Today’s menu (junk)

1 pie and cup of chips            1 egg and bacon burger                  another 2 litre sno top

2-litre sno top                                1 cup of chips                                        2 ice blocks          

1 packet twisties                         2 stubbies of beer                  

1 tomato                            1 bar snack choc 

Went to tavern for tea and had a beer

Japanese guy on bike showed up late (carrying guitar on back!)

 

Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: south east light

·        Terrain: lush green, road O.K. - average

·        Speed: 16-18kmh

·        Bike problems: none.

·        Traffic: two per 56km

·        Water: none until Marla then plenty – can drink all tap water and tastes nice.

 

 

The end of the Track. Back on the bitumen

 

 

Day 16.

Sunday 28th April 2002 (145km)

 

Slept in – up at 6.30. Nice sleep lots of vivid dreams as per usual – nothing about countryside etc always about people from past/long ago – subconscious has nothing to sort out so must be digging deep to find something to rake up!

Back on the bitumen. Met German guy bike riding to Darwin (older than us!) passed, rode with, and passed him all day.

Wind northeast and got stronger as we went – day clear not too hot – about 26C.

Stopped on side of road 50km for 15 minutes. Stretched out on large rock and relaxed.

Lots of traffic all day in both directions lots of bushes, scrub but not many ups or downs.

 

Rode to 120km – emergency water stop No 1. Maryatt River, lots of people in and out (park bay).Lots of people came up and talked (mostly retirees/pensioners) asked questions etc. – Even had bikies slow down on road (Harley Davidson) and talk to us.

Greg decided to go on so he didn’t have as far to ride tomorrow.

I went on after as too many people around to camp at park site.

Stopped just off road after 145km at 5.00. Got campfire going. Last camp out unfortunately.

Spent about one and a half hours organising tea (noodles first, then soup, then coffee).

Great – nothing else to do. Love the structure of the days. Bike ride, set up camp, eat, and sleep – nothing else to concern yourself about.

Beautiful night, starry, waited until campfire went out (9.00pm) before going in tent (hardly any flies and no mossies today/night).

 

 

Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: north east

·        Terrain: mainly flat, bushes, shrubs etc cattle country

·        Speed: 20-21kmh average

·        Bike problems: none.

·        Traffic: 10 cars per hour

·        Water: rain tank at emergency stop number 1.

Last campout on the way to Kulgera

 

 

 

 

Day 17.

Monday 29th April 2002 (40km)

 

Laid in, beautiful morning.

Only 40km to Kulgera. Wind came up right on time 9.00 moderate northeast to north.

Not much traffic.

Over the border and into Kulgera. Place has changed – much nicer – pool, grassed areas, trees and servo updated. Not like last time – windy dust bowl.

Greg’s father-in-law – Wally and wife turned up on their way to Darwin stayed a couple of hours.

Man/woman on Harley (flat tyre) sat and talked – would have all day if we let him.

Kulgera expensive for food/takeaways and in particular snacks.

Sat in camp/lawn area until 8.00 pm. Lots of people arrived set/up. One-third retirees, two-thirds backpacker type young Europeans.

Cattle truck came in and parked at front of park for about two hours – cattle mooing, stomping, smelling etc. Typical Kulgera – but water nice to drink.

 

 

 

Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: north north east (only 40ish km today) wind strong for last hour

·        Terrain: same as yesterday

·        Speed: 20kmh

·        Bike problems: none.

·        Traffic: plenty

·        Water: Kulgera – plenty (from taps drinkable nice).

 

 

 

Day 18.

Tuesday 30th April 2002 (74km)

 

Awoken 5.30 am by truck pulling in.

Decided to leave early and beat the wind. Left by 6.20. Dark and very cold but still (put on gloves and spray jacket).

Very still morning until about 55k = 9.00am.

Met ‘Tim’ coming other way on recumbent bike and trailer. Riding from Darwin back to Traralgon Victoria via. Adelaide. Spoke for half an hour. Apparently tandem rides from Oodna broke back wheel and stuck in Erldunda for nine days. Also knew of Jap cyclist with guitar (saw him Marla – riding at night) plus another couple of stories about bike riders around – bush telegraph/gossip again – but fun. Gives a sense of belonging to a group. By the time we finished talking Greg had caught up. From there only 20ish to Erldunda – very easy day 74km. 

Erldunda has small bakery – got some fresh bread. Park not bad. Pool nice – had a swim.

Sat out front and watched the world go by (in roadhouse) stacks of buses/cars/4x4 etc coming/going to Ayers Rock/Alice and south – feels like we’re in Tourist Country. Not as ‘country like’ as before – not as many hello’s etc.

Had hamburger for tea as per last few nights.

 

 

Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: light east to east south east (none in morning for first one and a half to two hours – rode in dark for a while)

·        Terrain: a couple of hills and flood plains before Erldunda but the rest as per last three days

·        Speed: 22-24kmh

·        Bike problems: none.

·        Traffic: light 3-4 per hour

·        Water: Erldunda – has Internet facility – cheaper to phone O.K. for O.S.

 

 

 

 

 

Day 19.

Wednesday 1st May 2002 (108km)

 

Up and organised left at 7.20.

Really pushed it until 60km rest stop.

Lots of hills. Very little wind but lots of 4x4, B doubles etc small buses.

North wind came up after break and pounded us for next 50km – legs a bit tired from earlier. Pushed into it until Stuarts Well.

Building new bridge across Hugh River (3km dirt detour).

Got to Stuarts Well around 1.00. Bit of a dump. Pool O.K. (I didn’t go in). Park sheltered.

While Greg swam I walked over hills and around the back of the well. Nice scenery.

Had pie and chips for tea – makes a change from hamburgers.

Group of tourists came in while having tea – Dingo Act. Tourist plays piano and dingo jumps onto piano and starts howling – different!

Took pie back because it was cold and got another plate of chips for free (and pie) so had a big tea.

All construction workers from bridge turned up after (staying there out back).

Went to bed about 7.30 – torch had been left on accidentally so wasn’t charged up.

Had to go to sleep early.

 

 

Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: until 10? Nothing then very strong west north east

·        Terrain: hilly

·        Speed: first 60k = 24kmh. \ second 50k = 20kmh

·        Bike problems: none.

·        Traffic: very busy 15 per hour – lots of buses, B doubles

·        Water: plenty Stuarts Well and also at a couple of rest stops (rain tank but didn’t check quality or amount).

 

 

Day 20.

Thursday 2nd May 2002 (91km)

 

Up early to beat the wind.

Talked to construction worker about my bike etc. Said he’d seen quite a few bikes going through.

Greg got up later about 20 minutes behind.

Still hilly (yesterday had a 4km uphill section)

Steady 20-21kmh.

Had 50km stop at truck park.

Greg passed by – didn’t see me.

Wind came up 9.30 north-northeast headwind as per usual lots of B doubles 4x4, bikes etc – going to rock and construction site.

Passed Greg at his break.

Met ‘George the German’ coming the other way. Spoke English well talked for 10-15 minutes. He started Sydney then up to Queensland across to Mt Isa, bus to three ways and riding to Adelaide. Nice guy. Wasn’t sleeping in bush – liked company at night. In Queensland didn’t see any other bike riders – thought he was the only idiot doing it. Had hard time Tennant Creek for a few days (12kmh) – interested in Oodnadatta track.

Greg caught up and we rode into Alice. Decided to stay Stuart caravan park (closest to town) – arrived 12ish. Walked around town organised Kings Canyon tour. Went separate ways to do shopping – bumped in to him twice and German bike rider and Germans from Kulgera – small town/world.

Rang Rose/David told them we were here and would see them tomorrow.

Had all you can eat pizza – spent one and three-quarter hours there!

Saw Rose/Girls picking up tea.

Greg and I went back to Caravan Park to talk and rest.

 

 

Conditions for the day:

·        Wind: north north east after 9.30

·        Terrain: ‘hills’ first 50 floodplains next 40

·        Speed: 20-21kmh

·        Bike problems: none – bikes went extra well no punctures, major problems

·        Traffic: busy as per yesterday – Erldunda – Alice very busy ‘rock’ trade

Through Heavitree gap we’re there

 

 

 

 

 

Day 21.

Friday 3rd May 2002

Woke up before 6.00. Old habits die hard.

Good sleep.

Weird not having to ride bike or say it’s a rest day.

Trips finished – sad but true.

Whats the next trip to be? Canada to Mexico along the west coast

Lots of traffic noise last night and this morning.

Have to get used to it again (and all the people).

 

Questions and Answers

1. Longest distance between drinkable water?                                                                    

200km between Oodnadatta and Marla

 

2. Proportional distance where you have to walk?

0.05 % of trip. We only had to push the bikes through about half a dozen creek beds.

 
3. Any thorns?

Very few. Had some in the caravan Park at Oodnadatta. But none on track. If there is rain you

can expect thorns off of the track in the bush where you camp.

 

4. Proportion of road graded?

If the road is graded it just as good as bitumen. However it doesn’t take long for the cars to rip it

up. (We didn’t see a road train, tanker or truck along the track). If the road hasn’t been graded expect a lot of rocks/gravel and transferring from side to side. We had about 70km of graded track (out of 600+km of track)

which was great. I’m not sure how often the track is graded.

 

5. Places with really dreadful water?

No such thing as bad tasting water. Amazing how good it can taste after a hard ride. Best water was at Kulgera. We didn’t need to use our purifying tablets once. However don’t expect to find water in towns. See Day 12 for water use. For two days riding I used 8 ½ Litres water and 1.2 Litres PowerAde. (200km in total). Greg didn’t need as much water as me. Everyone’s physiology is different. Day temp was about 33 degrees C (in shade)

 

6. How many breakdowns did you have?

None. All our equipment stood the test. Even my cheap rack and panniers went well. Be sure your equipment will get severely beaten around by the conditions!

 

Links

"Guide to the Oodnadatta Track for Bicycle Travellers"
http://users.chariot.net.au/~gloria/oodnadatta.htm